Why autumn whitewashing of trees when and as it is better to bleach them, about it the reader learns from this article is necessary.
That the garden well and quietly transferred a cold time, it needs to be made correctly ready for the winter. After the crop is accurate, it is necessary to examine carefully all trees and to cut off the broken-off or burst branches and boughs. Remember that cracks
- and for trees it is the traumas got towards the end of vegetation – don’t heal. To fix and pull together them it is useless – all the same till winter won’t grow together, and wreckers will surely locate in a wound on wintering. Affected branches need to be cut accurately, and the saw cut is good for processing the garden thief.
That the tree was restored rather, in the autumn it feeds up the mineral fertilizers containing phosphorus, potassium and calcium. But by no means it is impossible to apply fertilizers with nitrogen not to stimulate growth of branches under winter which won’t manage to get stronger.
For example, at our rather warm winters the fresh manure brought on the naked earth or on thawing snow, gives a signal to roots of the tree which didn’t enter yet into a phase of rest don’t sleep) that it is necessary to work. After all in fresh manure just there is a lot of well acquired nitrogen and other active useful components. Bringing it now, we not only don’t increase winter hardiness of a plant, but, on the contrary, we stimulate it to the active involvement. But if further the temperature decreases, the risk of a vymerzaniye raises.
Therefore in the autumn it is necessary to introduce under trees and bushes potassium-phosphorus fertilizers after harvesting, but to frosts, and to carry out so-called prewinter vlagozaryadny watering.
The autumn is drier, the it is necessary waters more. Then the root system can reserve in fabrics of wood, a cambium there are enough carbohydrates which will protect plants from hard frosts. If there is a lot of manure and you don’t know, where it to apply, scatter it on a krone projection but not earlier than the daily average temperature will fall to – 5-10°S. One more very important point. Many gardeners in the old manner bleach trees in April-May to protect shtamb and the bases of the main skeletal branches from solar burns. But such burns happen in a clear sunny weather in February-March. Beams of the low sun are almost perpendicular to a tree trunk and heat up South side shtamba. It happens that the bark gets warm by the sun to +10-15°C while the core remains still frozen, after all a bark very good heat insulator. As a result of a difference of temperatures and volume expansion (in the afternoon plus, at night a minus) between heated-up and cold fabrics are formed cracks which are filled with water (the thawed snow, a rain, actually allocated with tree fabrics moisture). As a result at a night frost this moisture turns into ice which also increases in volume. And then the rupture of fabrics is inevitable. And so every night after sunny March day. And in the spring in these crude warm cracks niches disputes of numerous fungi which during the whole summer will destroy fabrics both towards a bark, and towards a core will arrive.
Therefore skilled gardeners advise to bleach trees not on spring, and in November – to the first frosts. But at first it is necessary to carry out an oshkurivaniye, to smooth out shtamby, to remove a dead bark, to disinfect shtamby a copper or iron vitriol or another fungitsidy. Trunks are desirable for bleaching for day following after these procedures – and to bleach up to the basis of the bottom skeletal branches fresh paint (store or own manufacturing from a lime, chalk, PVA-dispersii). Then the centers of infections and a surface of a tree will be destroyed will reflect light, further without allowing a bark to heat up on the spring sun.
Skilled gardener Anatoly Kofman warns about one mistake – an excessive zaglubleniye of a root neck of a tree when hope thus to protect root system from frosts. Often already when landing a sapling lower to the earth too low or, lifting garden level on 5-10 cm, fill up a root neck of the fruit. However the sapling needs to be lowered to the earth so that in a month after landing the root neck remained over the earth. And it is possible to protect from frosts an ordinary mulchirovaniye. Fir-tree fir twigs, peat, sawdust, straw, a dry tops of vegetable, a cane etc. will approach. Any of these materials can be laid though on meter in height – the higher, the it is more snowdrift. For protection against rodents it is possible to place in this heap of a mulch of 1-2 tablets of naphthalene. Rodents don’t love pungent smells.
(On materials of printing editions).